One of those tourists
Today, I was one of those tourists. The kind that don't dress for the weather, or read signs or plan ahead.
I did wear my raincoat, on top of my shorts and t shirt. I was careful to watch the road, so that I didn't get excessively splashed on the sidewalk. I remembered to say thank you in Estonian. I wasn't all bad.
I walked about half an hour to reach Kadriorg Park, the site of a palace commissioned by Peter the Great. There’s a formal baroque garden immediately outside the palace, and the backside looks out on an English style park, i.e., lots of trees on an expansive lawn. The whole thing is lovely if you ignore the fact that it was built by and for a foreign power.
Also on the grounds are a small amusement park (the Ferris wheel has eight baskets) and a lovely rose garden. It had a planting key, and the only name that stuck in my mind was “Aspirin.” (I went back later to find it's a pale pink rose.)
At the far end of the park is Kumu, the Museum of Modern Art. Naturally, when I was 50 feet away from it, I turned the wrong direction and explored (by accident) more of the grounds. I didn't even notice the impressive building because I was so taken by a cantilevered house that was black with an orange and yellow roof (see picture below).
After walking 10 minutes in the wrong direction, I turned around and discovered how close I'd been.
I had a delicious lunch of falafels in the stunning Cafe before discovering that the museum is closed on Mondays. Sigh. I think the hours were printed on the Tourist Guide to Transit, but since I walked there, I didn't consult the map.
Instead of going to the Botanical Gardens in the rain, I headed back to the hotel in a tram. After knitting for awhile, I set out to find Karnaluks, the yarn store that everyone talked about. I actually had passed by it on my first day, so this outing wasn't going to be my typical flight of discovery of unexpected places.
Karnaluks is a three storey wholesale outlet that sells to the public. It has everything to do with needle crafts, except yarn for Estonian gloves. There were banks of buttons in tubes, and by banks, I mean cubbies five feet high and 20 feet long. I don't think I've ever seen so many buttons.
Knitting needles were in three different places. One wall was for circulars, another for double ended and a third for conventional. I was looking for carbon fibre needles in a small circumference, and then decided I should also have a set of circulars.
While plentiful, the wool was not interesting. Much of it was made in Turkey, and lacked the softness I've come to cherish.
The store has sewing trims aplenty, and a wide variety of embroidery flosses. The first thing I saw were the cross stitch kits, then the scissors. The scissors selection was about a tenth the size of the knitting needle selection.
I understood why everyone at craft camp knew about Karnaluks, and although I bought my needles, I won't go back.
By the way, I bought a plastic envelope and some card stock, and mailed the needles to myself. It'll be a test of how strong carbon fibre really is.
For dinner, I decided to consult the holy grail of travel books, Lonely Planet. It steered me to Pegasus, and once again I had a fabulous meal. The restaurant is near the spot where the free city tour started on Sunday, so I didn't get lost that time either.
It's a three storey site, with wonderful spiral staircases. I had the roasted chicken breast with salads, and purred with every bite. It was as attractive as it was tasty, garnished with fruit and served with fresh green beans and radicchio. The waitress, a lovely young woman from the general vicinity of craft camp, recommended the strawberry rhubarb soup for dessert. I can only describe my reaction as that of the dog in Quick Draw McGraw cartoons in the 1960s.
Back at the hotel, I thought it best to reserve a car for the rest of my time in Estonia. I fully realize that I had many days when I could have done this, but I started off by saying I was one of those tourists.
First place was sold out. Second place had a 16 seater van. Third place took my online reservation for a Fiat 500. When I phoned to double check, they only had luxury cars. However, that man gave me the number of a local company, and I've been set up with an Opal Astra. Phew.
Tomorrow I plan to find my grandparent’s farm from the GPS coordinates. Then I'll head west to Haapsalu, the centre of knitted lace.
I'll try my best not to be annoying.
I did wear my raincoat, on top of my shorts and t shirt. I was careful to watch the road, so that I didn't get excessively splashed on the sidewalk. I remembered to say thank you in Estonian. I wasn't all bad.
I walked about half an hour to reach Kadriorg Park, the site of a palace commissioned by Peter the Great. There’s a formal baroque garden immediately outside the palace, and the backside looks out on an English style park, i.e., lots of trees on an expansive lawn. The whole thing is lovely if you ignore the fact that it was built by and for a foreign power.
Also on the grounds are a small amusement park (the Ferris wheel has eight baskets) and a lovely rose garden. It had a planting key, and the only name that stuck in my mind was “Aspirin.” (I went back later to find it's a pale pink rose.)
At the far end of the park is Kumu, the Museum of Modern Art. Naturally, when I was 50 feet away from it, I turned the wrong direction and explored (by accident) more of the grounds. I didn't even notice the impressive building because I was so taken by a cantilevered house that was black with an orange and yellow roof (see picture below).
After walking 10 minutes in the wrong direction, I turned around and discovered how close I'd been.
I had a delicious lunch of falafels in the stunning Cafe before discovering that the museum is closed on Mondays. Sigh. I think the hours were printed on the Tourist Guide to Transit, but since I walked there, I didn't consult the map.
Instead of going to the Botanical Gardens in the rain, I headed back to the hotel in a tram. After knitting for awhile, I set out to find Karnaluks, the yarn store that everyone talked about. I actually had passed by it on my first day, so this outing wasn't going to be my typical flight of discovery of unexpected places.
Karnaluks is a three storey wholesale outlet that sells to the public. It has everything to do with needle crafts, except yarn for Estonian gloves. There were banks of buttons in tubes, and by banks, I mean cubbies five feet high and 20 feet long. I don't think I've ever seen so many buttons.
Knitting needles were in three different places. One wall was for circulars, another for double ended and a third for conventional. I was looking for carbon fibre needles in a small circumference, and then decided I should also have a set of circulars.
While plentiful, the wool was not interesting. Much of it was made in Turkey, and lacked the softness I've come to cherish.
The store has sewing trims aplenty, and a wide variety of embroidery flosses. The first thing I saw were the cross stitch kits, then the scissors. The scissors selection was about a tenth the size of the knitting needle selection.
I understood why everyone at craft camp knew about Karnaluks, and although I bought my needles, I won't go back.
By the way, I bought a plastic envelope and some card stock, and mailed the needles to myself. It'll be a test of how strong carbon fibre really is.
For dinner, I decided to consult the holy grail of travel books, Lonely Planet. It steered me to Pegasus, and once again I had a fabulous meal. The restaurant is near the spot where the free city tour started on Sunday, so I didn't get lost that time either.
It's a three storey site, with wonderful spiral staircases. I had the roasted chicken breast with salads, and purred with every bite. It was as attractive as it was tasty, garnished with fruit and served with fresh green beans and radicchio. The waitress, a lovely young woman from the general vicinity of craft camp, recommended the strawberry rhubarb soup for dessert. I can only describe my reaction as that of the dog in Quick Draw McGraw cartoons in the 1960s.
Back at the hotel, I thought it best to reserve a car for the rest of my time in Estonia. I fully realize that I had many days when I could have done this, but I started off by saying I was one of those tourists.
First place was sold out. Second place had a 16 seater van. Third place took my online reservation for a Fiat 500. When I phoned to double check, they only had luxury cars. However, that man gave me the number of a local company, and I've been set up with an Opal Astra. Phew.
Tomorrow I plan to find my grandparent’s farm from the GPS coordinates. Then I'll head west to Haapsalu, the centre of knitted lace.
I'll try my best not to be annoying.
Once out of Old Town, many buildings in Downtown Tallinn are very modern,
with fascinating architectual details.
Jaan Poska, Mayor of Tallinn 1913-1917. I like his stride.
The cantilevered house.
The house Peter the Great built, in Kadriorg Park.
The other side of the house.
The view from the House that Peter the Great built.
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