Haapsalu
Haapsalu, on the west coast of Estonia, kiss famous for its knitted lace. It's also a long time summer spot, and has healing waters for people needing a pick me up. Tchaikovsky spent the summer of 1867 here, probably obvious to the political events in far away Canada.
The town features a 13th century castle (in ruins) built by the Church of Rome. An interpretive sign says the protective features include spots to pour burning oil on invaders. Inside the walls nowadays is a marvellous playground, a cathedral not in ruins and a stage for the upcoming Blues Festival.
Along the extensive waterfront is a promenade, with sponsored benches, most commemorating deceased relatives. The Tchaikovsky bench is stone and has piped music playing so softly that I had to be still to confirm it was real.
In the middle of the recreational harbour is a statue of a polar bear on a rather small ice floe. It was installed before climate change rose to prominence, and still serves as a reminder.
On the boat launch, I saw a family of swans. The cygnets were still fluffy and grey, but their bodies were at least 30 cm long. The very fabulous Tallinn tour guide said she grew up thinking swans were saltwater birds. This certainly confirmed it.
The town is pretty, with signs that the winters are cold. Old buildings have wooden shutters. New ones have double windows.
My guesthouse was one of the nicest places I've ever stayed. It was an apartment, with an airy sitting room, lucite dining table & chairs, and an efficient kitchen. The dishwasher was installed to look like any of the cupboards, and the kitchen sink was round. The bedroom was separated from the living room by the stairs. The bathroom was easily the same size as the bedroom and had heated floors. When I closed the door for a while, it got too hot.
The owner is a 30 something man who quit his day job for a more enjoyable life. He has these three units of guesthouse, and has started a restaurant with friends. The chef, he said, also quit city life. Unfortunately, the menu was heavy with dairy products, so I didn't try it. His wife works for the British embassy and they have a 2 month old son.
Since I went to Haapsalu to visit the lace museum, I made sure to go. It was my second stop, after the tourist info centre.
The museum is the size of a large shop, and is a popular gathering place for the knitters. About eight of them were in a circle when I was there, needles quietly clicking. The work on display was not all traditional, and one woman brought in her latest creations -- lace-lined clear plastic umbrellas. They were exquisite.
From my class, I thought Haapsalu shawls had to be rectangular, made of impossibly fine white wool. At the museum, I saw different weights of wool, different blends of yarn and a wide variety of colour. Needless to say, all the work was amazing.
I've left Haapsalu, and am in the ferry lineup for Hiiumaa. I missed the 1 pm sailing by six cars. I'll be near the front for the 2:30. The ferry crossing is about 1.5 hours, and car & driver was almost 13 Euros.
A mama swan and her rather large goslings.
The town features a 13th century castle (in ruins) built by the Church of Rome. An interpretive sign says the protective features include spots to pour burning oil on invaders. Inside the walls nowadays is a marvellous playground, a cathedral not in ruins and a stage for the upcoming Blues Festival.
Along the extensive waterfront is a promenade, with sponsored benches, most commemorating deceased relatives. The Tchaikovsky bench is stone and has piped music playing so softly that I had to be still to confirm it was real.
In the middle of the recreational harbour is a statue of a polar bear on a rather small ice floe. It was installed before climate change rose to prominence, and still serves as a reminder.
On the boat launch, I saw a family of swans. The cygnets were still fluffy and grey, but their bodies were at least 30 cm long. The very fabulous Tallinn tour guide said she grew up thinking swans were saltwater birds. This certainly confirmed it.
The town is pretty, with signs that the winters are cold. Old buildings have wooden shutters. New ones have double windows.
My guesthouse was one of the nicest places I've ever stayed. It was an apartment, with an airy sitting room, lucite dining table & chairs, and an efficient kitchen. The dishwasher was installed to look like any of the cupboards, and the kitchen sink was round. The bedroom was separated from the living room by the stairs. The bathroom was easily the same size as the bedroom and had heated floors. When I closed the door for a while, it got too hot.
The owner is a 30 something man who quit his day job for a more enjoyable life. He has these three units of guesthouse, and has started a restaurant with friends. The chef, he said, also quit city life. Unfortunately, the menu was heavy with dairy products, so I didn't try it. His wife works for the British embassy and they have a 2 month old son.
Since I went to Haapsalu to visit the lace museum, I made sure to go. It was my second stop, after the tourist info centre.
The museum is the size of a large shop, and is a popular gathering place for the knitters. About eight of them were in a circle when I was there, needles quietly clicking. The work on display was not all traditional, and one woman brought in her latest creations -- lace-lined clear plastic umbrellas. They were exquisite.
From my class, I thought Haapsalu shawls had to be rectangular, made of impossibly fine white wool. At the museum, I saw different weights of wool, different blends of yarn and a wide variety of colour. Needless to say, all the work was amazing.
I've left Haapsalu, and am in the ferry lineup for Hiiumaa. I missed the 1 pm sailing by six cars. I'll be near the front for the 2:30. The ferry crossing is about 1.5 hours, and car & driver was almost 13 Euros.
The castle grounds
Everywhere I went in Estonia,
the restaurant patios had flower boxes spilling over with petunias.
The polar bear statue in the bay.
The Nancy Bush bench on the Promenade.
Nancy is an American knitter & author who popularized Estonian lace and traditional patterns for the North American market. Based in Salt Lake City, she teaches workshops all over the USA. My Aunt Ellen has her book on traditional patterns, and my friend Eileen has her book on Lace Knitting of Estonia.
Nancy proudly told me that the knitters of the Haapsalu Lace Museum 'bought' a bench in her name a few years ago. She attended this year's craft camp as a participant, and the instructor of my Haapsalu Shawl workshop said she started knitting shawls after reading Nancy's book, even though she has lived in Haapsalu for many years.
From the Haapsalu Lace Museum:
This knitter made some umbrella liners, and installed them in clear plastic umbrellas.
Finally, my apartment in the guest house:
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